Great Rivers of Europe
Published date:
04.27.09
March 21, 2009
Ride to LAX. Everything A-OK. Flight on schedule.
Atlanta on schedule. But flight to Paris delayed because toilets in first class do not work. Flight delayed, and delayed. Captain gives occasional updates: technicians there, unit being replaced, new unit being tested, calibrated, tanks emptied for flight. Finally, takeoff. The ETA Paris about the time our connecting flight is supposed to start boarding. Possibility of lost luggage loams in my mind. While I try, I am not successful at getting some sleep for during the overnight flight. Somehow, even with effort, I am not able to sleep. I'm tired, but I cannot sleep. I cover my eyes with the eye thingies the airline (Delta) supplied. Nope. It didn't work for me. It seemed the harder I tried the less successful I was.
March 22, 2009
We land in Paris per the revised ETA. I wonder whether we'll even be able to catch the connecting flight since it is already past time it is supposed to begin boarding and we are not at the gate. It feels as if the time to the gate is an eternity... In my mind. We don't even know what our departure gate is. The captain requests those passengers who do not have to make connecting flights remain seated so those of us who do can deplane first and have a chance of making our connections. We do get off but can't see Eloise and Barbara, her sister.
We walk fast.
We are in the 'A' Terminal and have to walk to the '2D' terminal. We learn our gate is D-56 from the information display. A long walk. The walkways do not work so there is no boost in speed from that. Then immigration. Followed by one more security check point. Are we going to make it. The Captain did say something about passengers having to spend the daynight in De Gaulle for a new connecting flight.
But, the gate is still open and we are permitted to enter even though the gate is just about to close. We announce that there may be others following us. The check the roster for our flight and ask if the others are Bower and Conrad. We confirm that and they agree to keep the gate open a bit longer to give them a chance to catch up. I had thought it possible they were ahead of us since on the flight we were in the last row and they were somewhere closer to the front of the plane. But no. Somehow we passed them without seeing them. They made the gate about five minutes after we did and the plane was able to take off on schedule and even arrive in Vienna ahead of the published schedule.
Our luggage did not make it to Vienna with us. It could not run to catch our flight. It is . . . somewhere. We report our loss to the proper authorities and the Grand Circle rep adds its critical information so they could make sure our luggage finds its way to us.
Suffice it to say, our luggage did not make the boat that night – and we sailed at 10:30 pm. Our hope is that the luggage would catch up with us in Melk, our first stop. It's a good thing I carried extra underwear. But, I did not bring a change of socks, toothbrush, or shaving gear. All that stuff is packed in the missing luggage. Grand Circle offers toothbrushes and shaving gear, but Meitsu insists we don't need anything. She did have extra toothbrushes in her backpack. Good enough. Grand Circle also offered to launder our clothes. Every business does well when things are going well. The real test of any business is when things do not go as planned. I've been on airlines when things go bad. Some do good, but the actions of others make me understand why bankruptcy is now part of major airlines' business plans. In this case, Grand Circle and the crew of the MS River Harmony passed the test. Not only do they provide good travel experiences but it comes through when things don't go as planned.
I cannot keep my eyes open during the orientation in the ship's lounge by the Captain.
Meitsu kept nudging me but my eyes kept closing. I was tired. Our room is below water but has a narrow window above water. It is a narrow, panoramic picture window. It does let light in. This is the lowest we've ever been in a river boat.
March 23, 2004
Melk
I sleep well. We sleep late. We almost miss breakfast.
Melk is an Austrian town of about 3,000. Its main attraction is the Melk Abbey which is now a museum. Meitsu remembers visiting on our first trip here so we don't take the tour. She says the content of the museum consists mainly of jewelry. That's not something we're interested in, so we do not take the optional tour. But the town is walkable and within walking distance of the ship. Nice. Weather OK. Our luggage is waiting for us. It is a cute enough town. I'll remember mainly as the place where we got our luggage and a chance to shower and change. The town is a few hundred yards walk from the boat's berth. The Abbey is on a hill overlooking the town and the Danube.
March 24, 2009
Passau
We've had some weather over night. Snow. Meitsu sleeps late. I'm up first so I go up to get her a surprise Cappuccino. I think it has its affect since she wakes up and tells me we have to go get coffee. I have to tell her it is on the table next to her.
We are in the lounge as the ship approaches Passau. This is our last Austrian stop. This is a bigger town than Melk with a big Bishop's palace on one side of the river. The town itself seems compact. Its main claim to fame is the St. Steven's Cathedral. At one time Vienna was a small part of this Bishop's See. Who knew, way back when, that Vienna would eclipse Passau in importance and size. We experienced wind and snow, wind, wind and hail, and more wind and snowhail during our town walk. It was not unpleasant as it sounds. I was relieved it did not rain. At least it did not rain while we were on our walk. Rain was added to the mix as we sat safely inside the lounge looking out at the changing weather. We even had some sun, which over-warmed me in my window view seat.
This afternoon we get a history talk.
March 25, 2009
Regensburg
This morning we dock at Regensburg. Crunchy snow covers most of the ground and snow or frost is on the roofs of all the buildings. Flags flutter indicating some wind. I saw one man walk by with a furry hat wit flaps that covered his ears. Is that a sign of what our morning walk will experience?
We experienced a cold wind at some exposed spots on our walking tour. By the time of our walk the snow that remains is mostly in areas protected from the little bit of sun that manages to reach the ground. The sky, which had only a thin cloud cover when we docked is now a flat gray. There are no shadows.
The town dates back to Roman times. One wall is dated 149 ad with a name that is no longer used. Regensburg was originally an outpost for soldiers. Later it became a trading center. The townspeople were not talented at naming things. The original stone bridge doesn't have a name like the Charles Bridge in Prague. No. Their bridge is called the “Old Stone Bridge.” One street is called “Alley of Second Hand Shops.” Well, you know what you would have found there if you lived back in those old days. Animals lived in the courtyards. Pigs were used to eat garbage that collected in the streets. What the pigs did not eat was swept down to the Danube. With the very narrow streets, the air must have been ripe with aroma of decaying stuff.
The Apple Store is pointed out as an Internet cafe. Later, a recommended coffee shop is pointed out. It has Wifi. I take the computer there, buy a Cappuccino and connect and send my emails. A very nice university town. Good place to visit or return to.
March 26, 2009
KelheimRiedenburg
The main item for this day is the optional excursion which goes to the Weltenburg Monastery which is the home of the world's oldest monastery brewery. Beer has been produced here for more than 1,000 years. The setting itself is quite nice on the Danube Gorge. This is a part of the river too narrow for our ship to navigate. Instead, it takes a bypass. While we are doing the tour the ship is sailing to a stop where we will meet it. We get to sample the beer and then ride a ferry up the Gorge to Regensburg where we take another bus to the Liberation Hall, a structure on the top of a hill that overlooks the river and town. Ludwig I not only built the first canal connecting the North Sea to the Black Sea, he was responsible for the Hall on the hill. The Hall is symbol of victory over Napoleon and German unification.
This is also the afternoon in Beilingries where we did the Grand Circle “home hosted” visit. This was a very pleasant experience. The lady who hosted our group prepared coffee and Black Forest cake. Wonderful.
Unfortunately, this is also the evening we have the Bavarian dinner, an over the top meal of roast pig, beef, and too much other food. We had no energy to attend the evening lecture on the technology of the canals. Overnight we we traverse the Main-Danube Canal as we leave the Danube and head for the Rhine. I should try to remember to suggest that the home hosted event not be on the same day as the Bavarian dinner.
March 27, 2009
Nuremberg
We wake already docked at Nuremberg. After breakfast we get a very good talk on the history of the city and its importance for the Third Reich and the post-war trials. Our guides (and the history professor) were very candid about Germany's history making the historical content part of the presentation very interesting. The city itself was mostly destroyed during the War and what we see today has been construction since the war. Part of the old town has been reconstructed. It's not really a pretty city. Utilitarian is the word that comes to mind to me as a way to describe it. The weather here is mostly threatening – light rain off and on (sometimes heavy) all day. I sort of look around for internet cafe or wifi hot spot but feel as if I can wait until Cologne for our next email check.
March 28, 2009
Bamberg
The highlight today is the morning city walk tour of Bamberg. It is drizzly, from mild to almost heavy. We didn’t feel the need for the umbrella, but we each had either hat or raincoat to protect from the weather. Bamberg is a World Heritage Site and well preserved. We were told this town is a favorite for Americans stationed here. I can understand why. There are lots of students because of the university. Coffee shop, next to book store, next to another coffee shop and so forth. Fun. All it needs is a little California weather. The sun does not threaten to reveal itself. It remains hidden behind the moisture heavy clouds.
We return to the ship for afternoon sailing to our next destination. Shipboard activities include galley tour and meeting with the captain. We are informed clocks – the start of daylight savings time here – are to be set ahead tonight. Great!
March 29, 2009
Wurzburg City
This is a nice walk-around town. We were promised the ship would be docked within walking distance of the town center. Instead, we docked some distance from town – a distance that encouraged the use of the now supplied shuttle service. The captain explained the river was rising and he was concerned the ship might not make it under what was then the next bridge if he didn’t pass it right away and we would be stuck on the wrong side of the bridge until the water receded. This was a good move. Another ship following us stayed on the ‘wrong’ side and did get stuck.
We almost see our shadows when we set out. But, it is cool and we keep our jackets zipped up. Somehow, we had no trouble getting up an hour early. The first stop was the ‘Residence’. This was a one-time, long ago, residence of the Bishop. These guys lived a life impossible for me to imagine. How many rooms? One length is longer than a football field. This “residence” is more like a palace for a king. Off with their heads! The French had it right.
Rothenburg - Optional tour
Nicely preserved city. Nice walks. Pretty. Good value.
March 30, 2009
Wertheim
Sun! A band is on the dock to perform and greet us. It is here because we are the first ship of the season and they want to make us feel welcome. Oom-pah! This is another, nice, walk-around town. We are docked right across the street from the town entrance. The town is so small Grand Circle does not provide a map as they deem it impossible to get lost. We didn’t, if that’s any proof. We did the city walk and then we (Meitsu and me) walked up to the castle ruins that overlook the town. The view makes the walk worth the effort.
March 31, 2009
Heidelberg
This is a fine old university town. It is not on ‘our’ river, so we have to bus into the city after the ship makes a ‘technical’ stop so those of us taking this optional tour can get off. While this is the home of one of Europe’s oldest colleges, it has also become quite touristy. That doesn’t mean it is not worth a visit. It is. It’s touristy because of its location, its access to the autobahn, and its castle ruins overlooking the town. The old part of the town is compact enough to make walking easy. It has a funicular that takes passengers from the old town to the castle. We were on a bus from the ship so we rode that up. The castle is nice enough with a couple of tourist shops, museums, and is nice to just walk around enjoying the views. One view is of a big residence further up the hill where Mark Twain lived when he was in Heidelberg. Huckleberry Finn is supposed to be named based partly on the name of the town and the town’s people are proud of that.
Oh, it is warm and sunny. A perfect day. Students lounge in the squares warming themselves in the natural heat.
Our tour included lunch at a student hangout. Stuffed pasta with a heavy sauce! Life is good. One beer provided with meal.
A car passed us as we walked River with a curious tripod contraption on top that I determined was a camera equipped for 360 degree shooting. As my eyes followed the car as it passed I say a large Google sign on the back. Could this be one of Google Earth’s vehicles recording ground level information for its map service. I’ll have to remember to check it out to look for an odd couple.
April 1, 2009
Mainz
This is the city with the Gutenberg Museum. Our city walk includes a stop at the museum. It is sunny, but the lecture inside is good to hold the attention. This morning it is windy and cool. The afternoon promises to be warmer. We spend the night.
April 2, 2009
Rhine
Today is a cruise day. We see 30+ castles and round the Lorelei. Nice view. Lots of river traffic. This is a working river. That fact is very evident today. Crew makes this part of the cruise a big deal by dressing up in costumes. As for the director pulling Lorelei duty, well, I felt sorry for him.
Koblenz
This is another reasonably cute town. It was mostly destroyed by the end of WWII because an arms factory was nearby. The result is most of the structures are fairly new. Some effort was extended at restoring the charm of the town by creating cute sculptures representing local stories, for example, the cop giving a dog a citation after the wife of a man complains the dog peed on her husband’s leg. You get the idea.
April 3, 2009
Cologne
The main attraction of Cologne is its massive cathedral. This thing is B-I-G. I think I heard it took some 360 years to complete. It is also under continual restoration. One quip is that the world ends on the day the cathedral is finished.
The train station (the biggest in Germany) is just across the street. Internet cafes are within walking distances and are now no-smoking, which is a welcome change from our our last visit.
For those inclined to shop, there's lots of shopping. It's like a very large, outdoor, shopping mall. That doesn't mean there are no museums. There are several worthwhile museums. And there is a concert hall under the walkway between the boat and the cathedral. Guards keep people from walking over a portion of the walkway during concerts or practice in the auditorium. It seems the noise of feet above is distracting to performers as well as the audience.
We sail overnight to Amsterdam, our last stop.
April 4, 2009
Amsterdam
Cold. Windy. I'm reminded of the cold and wind we experienced at the beginning of our trip. Is this an omen for our flight home? We do the requisite boat ride through the canals ending in a visit to the diamond factory. This is the usual tourist fare, nothing exceptional. Practical people. Practical architecture. Rather than take the return boat ride back to our boat, we chose to walk to the flea market and then on back to the boat. The wind picks up and it is cold. This is a cold that goes through my light jacket. I stuff my hands in my pockets and don't really notice any of the stuff offered for sale in the market. I guess I don't give it a fair chance. We were warned to look out for pickpockets, but I think they are not out in force because it is a cold day during low season. Pickpockets must be fair weather crooks. Plus, there are no crowds (because of the cold weather?) for them in which to lose themselves.
April 5, 2009
Flight home. Up early to catch our flight to Atlanta where we are processed through immigration and customs before rechecking our bags to the flight on to LAX. Everyone gets their bag on arrival at LAX except for me. My bag was placed on a later flight. On given the choice to wait for the next flight or going home and having the bag delivered to my home, I elect to go home. At this point we had been up for twenty-four hours. I feel like I need some aspirin and bed. My eyes were red. My feet were swollen.
April 6, 2009
My bag makes it home.
Traveler: Robert from Irvine, CA traveled
on March 21, 2009
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