Prague and 'Blue' Danube
Published date:
03.23.12
My wife, Mary, and I were on the first trip of 2012—Prague to Budapest.
The trip focuses on the cities of Central Europe that have been an important part of our culture and history.
The BerlinDresden pre-trip was important to us but I will first start with the base trip which, for us, started in Prague.
Our personalized GCT travel handbook had indicated that the Czech Republic requires health insurance of up to 30,000 Euros for various specific things such as medically supervised repatriation back home. The personalized handbook indicated that GCT had made arrangements with an insurance company to cover participants for any Czech deficiencies during those three days in the Czech Republic. Three weeks before departure, GCT indicated that GCT would not meet the Czech Republic requirement and that, if asked, participants would be required to prove that their private insurance covered all the Czech requirements. We carried our private insurance cards but were never asked to prove the coverage requirements. Others on the trip were as confused as we were and took similar actions. The local guides in the Czech Republic knew nothing of special health coverage requirements unique to their country.
Our first Prague meeting was in a large conference room at the hotel Don Giovanni. We met the four Program Directors (“PDs”) and one additional PD learning the trip before having a group of his own. The more than 150 participants moved on, by four busses, to the Monastery Restaurant in the castle district.
The attractive high-ceilinged Monastery room was filled with picnic type tables with movable benches. The benches were somewhat uncomfortable and difficult to get into and out of but we were there for the food and music. I enjoyed the good band of accordion, trumpet, and drums played without amplification and a female vocalist with amplification. A very attractive dance couple danced the variety of folk dances down the middle aisle. I found them quite good and enjoyed their costumes: traditional festive Bohemian for the first half and then Sunday go to church clothing of about 100 years ago. I would have liked to know the names of the dances, as I don’t know a ländler from a polonaise.
Each table of six was allowed up to twelve drinks total. That quota seemed to be more than enough for most tables as one or two drinks seemed enough for most people. Water was unlimited. A very tasty potato soup, containing a wide variety of vegetables, started the meal along with unlimited rye bread and butter. The arrival of the main plate stunned us all by its large size. A large sausage showed on top but as we ate down the pile we found a duck leg, roast pork, sauerkraut, and two kinds of dumplings (one all flour and one with mashed potato.) A poppy seed cake and coffee or tea ended the meal. We were supposed to get back to the bus by 8:30 but it was closer to 10 PM. I enjoyed the long event, but many, who had just flown in from North America, were very tired.
The next morning we were bussed to sights in Prague. We got off the bus in Prague Castle where we entered the west end of the cathedral. Later the bus left us off on a bridge near the former Jewish quarter from which we walked to the main square in time for the noon clock action. Our PDs passed out metro tickets and instructed us in how to get back to the hotel on our own on the metro. In spite of using transit systems in many cities (including previous Prague visits) I almost didn’t push the door open button in time when we got to the hotel stop. Later, I got confused with the ticket vending machines of Prague: one first selects the product and then enters the coins. I was trying to put in my money before selecting the product. I consider these things part of learning and discovery of GCT and OAT.
In our free time, we walked around the historic district and across the Charles Bridge. We walked up to the Castle enjoying the views from many points before coming back down through a vineyard.
We took the optional trip to Sychrov Castle, the 18th-century residence of the family of Rohan formerly from Brittany, who escaped the French revolution with some money. The trip was early in the season so it was getting dark on the trip. At the higher altitude so early in the season we had to walk on snow covered ground. We welcomed the hot mulled red wine served upon arrival, as we were quite cold. Participants were seated in chairs outside the small chapel for about fifteen minutes of music provided by a music teacher from a neighboring village and a soprano. I was surprised that we were not permitted to enter the chapel. The performers were out of our sight. The organ was small with no pedal notes and a lack of bright high notes but what can one expect from a pipe organ in a private home. There was a sign and basket in the rest rooms of a charge of five crowns, which I ignored, as I felt the GCT fee was sufficient. We went through the large home in groups of twenty. I enjoyed the elaborate wood carvings made by a carver who the family had employed for his entire career.
The included diner was in an outbuilding called the Orangerie for which we had to be bussed. As it was not a regular restaurant in the off-season, the catering had to be simple. We each got about 3 oz. glass of wine, a small salad plate with a few greens, some pieces of rye bread, processed ham and pickle. The main plate was sliced chicken roll, white rice and warmed with some hot gravy. Plum cake ended the meal. I thought we should have had a restaurant meal at some regular restaurant on the way back to Prague as the Orangerie had no historic old interior.
We also took the Charm of the Czech Countryside tour to a small village that had become run down in the Soviet period but is being restored by tourist operators. The local farm houses have been clustered in the poor lands to maximize the value of the most productive farm land. As again we left late in the day, things were quite dark. The tour was divided into two groups of 35 staggered by about half an hour to accommodate service in a small house. All drinks were unlimited. We were served marinated cheese, rye bread, potato soup, roast pork, red cabbage, boiled potato, ice cream, coffee and tea. An electronic synthesizer and four dancers moved between the two rooms demonstrating polkas. It was fun but constrained by very small space of the old farmhouse. The handicraft presentation must have been given to the earlier group.
Our transit day had a stop in Cesky Krumlov. In small groups we were dropped off at homes for a meal of plum brandy, potato soup, baked chicken, boiled potato, plum cake and coffee. The town of Chesky Krumlov was very well defended by rock cliffs, rivers, and high walls. I never had the town on my bucket list but enjoyed it thoroughly.
We boarded the motor ship Adagio in Linz. There were about 143 passengers, 41 crew, 5 PDs, and 7 GCT employees on board. The next day, we awoke early and walked around the nearby parts of Linz, which I found of little interest.
We were bussed to Salzburg where we picked up a local guide for a short walking tour including both sides of the Salzburg River. I didn’t care for the tour commentary and we entered no buildings. I felt that the guide spent too much time talking about movie settings and lining up a façade crown with a statue head in the square. The lunch was in the St. Peter Stiftskeller in a high-ceiling room that was able to handle about 160 of us in elegant style. Included were water, one glass of wine, clear beef soup with strips of wheat pancakes; an enormous breaded fried Schnitzel of turkey and Sacher Torte for desert. It was enough calories for two days!
The following day began our quest for the ‘Blue’ Danube. We sailed downstream through the scenic Wachau Valley Gorge of hard granite and gneiss. The gorge is a microclimate that has supported fruit production for thousands of years including grapes, apricots, plums, apples, peaches and cherries.
The Romans had settlements on the right bank from about 100 BC. (They considered the left bank as too barbaric and unsafe.) No nation since Roman times has controlled the entire river.
We had commentary over the sound system but it was too cold to spend much time on the top deck. We were told that, in German, the only color words that rhyme with Donau are grey and blue so blue became linked with the river since the Strauss music.
The ship tied up at a convenient location in Durnstein. We climbed to the castle ruins with many of the younger participants. Views from the peak were wonderful but the climbing was treacherous in places.
We were bussed back to Melk (which the ship had already passed) and our group in Melk got Ludmila as a guide through the Abbey. I thought she was the best local guide of the trip. She was an Asiatic Russian who, at first, I had trouble understanding, but grew to like more and more. We were the last group so she wasn’t pressured to rush but could answer many questions.
We had a lecture in the ship lounge about “Austria at War” from 1859 to 1945. The format worked well as participants who were not interested did not have to attend. Each participant desires lectures of different lengths.
We took the “Musical Vienna” optional tour to the Kursalon, as we did not have along the evening clothes for a regular concert for Viennese. The event was in an attractive room decorated with large bouquets of artificial flowers. I expected 100% tourists but I had not expected so many would bring flash cameras to a concert. A female dancer danced during some pieces, assisted by a male partner. Other pieces included a baritone and a mezzo. The musicians were a piano, percussion, flute, clarinet, three strings, cello and base. All were well-trained musicians but the event was a little amateurish as a wooden music stand collapsed and much fumbling with sheet scores led to papers blowing around. I had expected better acoustics for a small room. But the package of transportation, tickets and no need to dress up made it work.
The included “Best of Vienna” bussed us around with stops to enter the Opera House, the food stalls in Nashmarkt and to see the outside of “Hundertwasser Haus.”
On the ship, we had an even numbered cabin and were on the embankment side in the first five nights and facing the river in Bratislava and Budapest. As the ship must always tie up facing upstream, the orientation would be the same for either direction of the trip.
In Bratislava, we walked around the historic center of the city before breakfast. After breakfast our PDs took us on a walking tour of the same area and ended up in a pre-arranged meeting with a Jewish man who had lived a long time in Bratislava. He didn’t speak English and the communication through a PD translator to 150 participants in a square was difficult.
After our walking tour, we walked up to the castle area for a view. We were disappointed as we looked out over the historic area to the industrial plants in all directions. It was better to not know about the modern industry and make believe we were in an old town.
The Budapest ship location was excellent (between the Parliament and the Chain Bridge.) After the Farewell Dinner the ship cruised up and down the Danube for views of the lighted buildings, before tying up on the other side of the Danube for airport transfers in the morning.
On the whole, other GCT riverboats (Russia, Great Rivers, and Rhine and Mosel) seemed to work out better for us than this one. Of the seven nights on the riverboat, two were tied up in Linz, which I found of little interest.
The pre-trip was outstanding for us. I had not been to Berlin since August 1961 when restrictions on taking the metro between East and West Berlin began. Since then a wall went up and a wall came down. The focus of the city has shifted to the east. More efficient modern well-designed buildings have replaced buildings that had been quickly rebuilt in their existing style. Older buildings of design significance have been preserved. The Reichstag façade has been preserved with a dramatic modern interior. We enjoyed walking the new Reichstag dome with our PD describing the city and the parliament. Our PD taught us how to get around on the public busses so we could each do our own thing after breaking away. We visited the Pergamon Museum after breaking away.
We took the Potsdam Optional Tour and loved it even though we were unable to enter buildings other than a guest house near the rococo style San Souci.
On the way to Dresden our pre-trip had a stop in Lutherstadt Wittenberg where we entered the two significant churches and ate lunch from food stalls on the square.
Dresden was wonderful for me. I have avoided going there as I knew it had been leveled by 1,300 allied plane loads of bombs. However, the significant buildings along the waterfront have been rebuilt so that the old painters would still recognize the sight. I have, in the past, never warmed up to baroque style but I was thrilled in Dresden by the baroque style of Zwinger and Frauenkirche. We walked to the top of the rebuilt Frauenkirche and attended a 6 PM service. Although the service speaking was all in German, we enjoyed the organ music.
The hotels and breakfast buffets were wonderful in Berlin and Dresden.
On the way from Dresden to Prague we stopped in the town of Litomerice for lunch. On the square we talked with a Dutchman who sold Dutch cheese as his local language skills were too weak for other jobs. A local tavern provided an attractive comfortable room for the eleven of us for lunch. Further along we visited the outside of the Terezin Fortress which had been used to hold prisoners during the holocaust.
The Old World Prague & the Blue Danube trip provides a good focus on the cities of Central Europe that have been a very important part of our culture and history but frequently get less attention than the closer LondonParisRome areas.
Traveler: Alan from New York traveled
on March 03, 2012
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