China and the Yangtze River August 4-24, 2012
Published date:
09.13.11
China in August 2011
The plane trip: When your primary memory of a once in a lifetime trip to a fascinating country is like riding in a coffin with 499 other helpless people, it’s not very good. We do realize that Grand Circle Travel (gcttravel.com) keeps its prices lower by booking economy flights but we didn’t expect the tight, congested 3-4-3 rows with not even enough leg room for a 5’3” woman, let alone a 6’ man, in our United Airlines flights from San Francisco to Beijing and the very worst from Hong Kong to San Francisco. I sincerely hope we never are subjected to this airline again. However, having said that, I realize that flying from Dogpatch (Rapid City, SD) to anywhere is a suspenseful adventure anytime, any season.
OK – we got to China and got home again so now I can tell about this adventure. I think our ages have something to do with some of the comments you’ll read in this travelogue.
China’s population is 1.3 BILLION. Here is where we heard names like Ghengis Khan, Kublai Khan, Marco Polo, Sun Yat-sen and Mae Tse Tung and saw where they roamed and ruled. “China is a land with nothing to spare, its only abundance people. “
Scenery in: Beijing. We arrived into a vast (9 million inhabitants and 5 million cars) city beset with smog, heat and humidity. It’s one thing to read the chart of average temperatures (92-102 in August with high 90’s humidity) quite another to tour in it. We were kept very busy from day one seeing all the sights in person that we’d read about over the years: Tiananmen Square, Forbidden City, Hidden lanes (hotungs), Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace, Great Wall, Bird Nest Olympic site and Ming Tombs. The Great Wall never really did act as a defense line but it did work well as a kind of elevated highway. We even visited a Kung Fu School where a Karate Kid movie starathlete spoke to us of his experiences with Will Smith’s son Jaden in the most recent movie. Students aged 4 to 18 years old attend in the summer for an intensive, athletic and educational experience. Other schools were not in session. We also visited a cloisonné (cloy-zon-ay) factory and had a Peking Duck dinner. We experienced a Beijing Opera performance – much, much different than our idea of opera but an interesting mix of music, costumes, humor and acrobatics.
Food isn’t included in scenery but here’s where we began our daily Chinese lunches and dinners, all served on a huge turntable at tables for 9 (one of their lucky numbers) mostly. Since there were 31 of us on the tour we always had 3-4 tables. The meals always included sticky rice, some soup, 8-10 dishes of various hot, spicy, sweet and sour meat and vegetables. Our plates were small saucer size and a small soup bowl with choice of fork or chopsticks. Happily, we had western breakfasts always with choices of Chinese foods if we wished. By the time we reached Hong Kong, every one of us headed for a McDonald’s, Burger King or KFC. Gary and I may never enjoy Chinese buffets again. 3 continuous weeks really “fed us up with Chinese”.
Our hotels were very good and had the usual amenities. Most were on the 16th-20th floors. Since massive China really only uses the western 14th of the country and packs all the cities here, there are skyscrapers everywhere. Elevators are only installed in apartment houses with 11 or more floors. Our hotels all had elevators, were in the heart of town so we could walk and experience the people, and had American toilets and showers. Most of the beds were good but some were so hard it was like sleeping on the box spring without a mattress. We were always totally surrounded by people who cut diagonally across in front of us to wherever they were headed. Coming from our small town, we felt smothered by PEOPLE close into our personal space.
Most of us got used to squat toilets at various tourist sites. The large restrooms would have maybe 2 American sitting toilets and the rest squatting. As in almost all Central and South American countries, used toilet tissue was to be tossed in the wastebasket, not flushed.
Since we don’t buy anything we can’t eat or wear – or have to dust, we decided to buy playing cards from the famous sites. We also bought some small kites to play with. Vendors (shouting one dollah, one dollah) sold packages of 2-10 in a package but always demonstrated 20 kites tied together, flying in the breeze. Looks easy but we haven’t tried them ourselves yet.
After 5 days in Beijing we flew the first of 5 inland flights (all 1 ½ to 2 ½ hours and we were fed on every one!) to Shanghai. Here we toured the Jade Buddha Temple, strolled the Bund Promenade and visited the Shanghai Museum of Art and History. We had an optional Shanghai by Night boat ride; Suzhou tour, Chinese acrobat performance and were able to tour the city and walk around our hotel for window shopping.
We visited a hutong by pedicab. This is a very ancient type of city alley. During the “Great Cultural Revolution” many historical and cultural relics of hutongs were destroyed but we saw one which has survived and forms a large “neighborhood” where everyone feels they belong and tries to care for their neighbors and way of life.
We experienced a bullet train (180mph) on the ride to Suzhou. We also experienced the Maglev (magnetic levitation) train: the only one of its kind in the world – top speed 400 mph –engineered by Germans who do not even have this train. It is a demonstration operation line of 30 km. from the Longyang Road Station in the west and ends at Pudong International airport, an 8 mile trip. It doesn’t actually get up to its full speed in that time.
We also shared our first home hosted lunch with a local family. This is a great GCT feature and a guide is along so we can communicate by translation. Usually the family meets a group of 6-10 of us, walks us to their home (usually up stairs) and serves the food. It’s Chinese food but usually different than the usual restaurant fare. We also learn about their family, home and lifestyle.
We toured a rug weaving factory and a silk spinning factory. Sericulture (raising of silkworms) can be traced back as far as 2640 B.C. The steps: adult moth lays eggs; caterpillars hatch and are fed mulberry leaves; they grow to about 3 inches long in about 28 days and increase their weight 10,000 times; in spinning nests they spin cocoons (an adult can form six inches of thread per minute); the cocoon can contain up to 3,000 feet of silk; the cocoons are heated to kill the pupae and extract the filaments. It was fascinating to watch the hand process but they also use machinery.
On Day 10 we flew to Wuhan, transferred to Jinzhou and Yuchang then embarked on our Yangtze River ship for a 4 night cruise. The scope of the Three Gorges Dam is almost unbelievable. It is the world’s largest dam. . . . near 4 times larger than Hoover Dam. A reservoir was created 360 miles long. Land submerged totaled 13 cities, 140 towns, 1352 villages, 657 factories, and approximately 75,000 acres of cultivated land. 1.3 million people were relocated. Four of the 5 locks are in operation and the difference in the river has been magnificent. We could see on the side walls the level of the river during spring thaw but we were about 40’ lower because it was August. Before the dam gorges and river were much narrower. Naked men were used to pull boats upriver before the dam. Now, with the much deeper water, the gorge is also much wider. One very strenuous result: many more stairs to climb from the ship to various tour sites. Our guide Frank asked our group what our thoughts were on this massive undertaking. None of us felt we should make negative or positive comments but I later told him: overpopulation of the world, especially China, means that some things have to be done which won’t please everyone. On this boat trip we also cruised the Xiling Gorge the Daning River and Wu Gorge. We toured Wanxian near the area flooded and visited the home of a relocated family. Displaced people could get a comparable replacement apartment free from the government or pay extra money for a larger apartment. This man has a larger one for himself, his wife, son and his family. However, he lives alone a lot of the time! He does tend a large garden and sells some of his produce. The main need for the larger apartment: holiday family visits. His wife is in the city babysitting the grandchildren on weekdays and the son also works in the city. He has other younger family members who prefer to work and live in Chongqing rather than the smaller village. Hmm, sounds like America and her young everywhere.
On this cruise we also met an extended Chinese family on vacation. Gary and I were sitting and reading and watching the scenery when a young girl (11 years old) came and plunked down, smiling, and trying to speak English to us. She was very brave and we told her so. She was soon joined by a 9 year old male cousin and a college age male brother. Soon her mother, a doctor, and her aunt, manager of a 5 star hotel, joined us. Across the way were the grandma, holding a toddler and grandpa. The extended family of 18 were on vacation. All smiled and we wrote things on paper, used the doctor’s electronic translator and the 2 boys’ better command of English. They took a photo of all of us together, made a copy and laminated it and presented it to us. It was a very happy though tiring hour of communication. Later in the afternoon Gary and I decided to participate in the Yangtze River trivia game as “Goodrich 2” team. In a matter of moments we became Goodrich 6 as our young friends joined us. We enjoyed much laughter as they ran back and forth to get answers that we didn’t know from family. We tied for 2nd place! That evening the 2 mothers invited us up for a drink and we continued our halting communication with the help of a bartender. We later gave some t-shirts (Sturgis Rally and some of my gently worn ones I was going to leave behind) and pens and received a bracelet from their home town of Taiyuan, famous as the home of Buddha culture. The fun thing was – we ran into them again at a museum then the airport as they were heading home.
On that boat trip I also enjoyed a one hour foot massage and learned to play Mah Jong or Majiang. This is a card game like rummy, played with tiles and there is four of every tile like a deck of cards. I hope I can remember enough to play again with the printed directions. Gary and I even dressed up as Chinese Emperor and Empress for photos. The nightly shows, of Chinese culture and music were great. It was a good rest from the hectic touring we’d had to this point.
We debarked at Chongqing and saw how strong the Chinese people can be. Frank, our guide said if we would pay $1 each, men would carry them up the 70+ steps (river level low). Gary and I traveled with 1 small checked bag and 2 carryon size while many of our group had huge suitcases + big carry ons. Of course, we each alternated 2 pair of zip off shorts and t-shirts while our friends had many changes of clothes. Hey! Are we ever going to see these people again? NO. We were able to wash clothes every few days as needed. Anyway, these Chinese men threaded luggage handles on poles and balanced as many pieces as they could then hustled up those stairs and back down again until all the luggage was at the bus. Thank goodness we didn’t have to do that. We bussed to Chongqing where we visited the Stillwell Museum of WWII Flying Tigers’ fame and learned about Major Claire Chennault.
The next stop was the pandas at the zoo. We saw only one but it was fascinating to watch him. The panda does not walk upright as other bears but can stand upright against a wall or tree and is able to sit in an upright position. Occasionally thought to be of the raccoon family, it is actually a bear. He was enjoying his bamboo meal too.
Later that afternoon we flew to Xi’an, home of the Terra Cotta Army and beginning of the Silk Road. Xi’an once vied with Rome and Constantinople for the greatest city in the world. Nothing can equal the sight of thousands of these soldiers, all different in face, posture and weapons, as they are being unearthed from their graves inside 3 buildings. Archaeologists and students are busy at work slowly unearthing them and putting the pieces back together. The warriors were made to protect the tombs of Emperor Qin Shi Huangdi from the Qin Dynasty of 200 years B.C. They were once sheltered by wooden beams and a layer of dirt but when their enemies overran the area, they set fire and everything burned and collapsed. A farmer, tilling his field, discovered the first soldiers. That farmer is still alive and is around to autograph books some days.
Here we enjoyed another home-hosted lunch and the father played music for us on his 2 stringed instrument. I took a photo of his sheet music. We also saw a Tang Dynasty Show and dinner with glorious costumes and music. We visited a laquerware workshop, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda and climbed Xi’an’s ancient city walls. If memory serves, we also had a McDonald’s hot fudge city here! Yum! We enjoyed a dumpling (18 varieties) lunch then flew to Guilin in the afternoon where we took an optional Yao Shan Tea Garden tour. This was day 17 of 21 and we were beginning to move more slowly. We enjoyed another cruise, this time on the Li River, and a visit to a local farm and rice paddy before our last interior flight to Hong Kong. Here we enjoyed an extensive tour of the city, including Victoria Peak, where we could see the mountains, bay and various settlements and many skyscrapers. We recognized lots of volcanic evidence here in the Ring of Fire area. Hong Kong is autonomous still for 37 more of the 50 years given them by China in 1999. Then it reverts back to China rule. Not sure how that is going to work out. It is one of the leading financial districts in the world. This was another subject Frank, our GCT guide, wanted our opinions about. No one was willing to venture one.
We were on the 19th day of 21 so spent more time resting, exploring the neighborhood and, finally, having some American food for a change. We also had another optional tour to Kowloon with seafood lunch tour and a final farewell dinner with our fellow travelers. Most of us would have liked to shop the Victoria Peak Mall but had to make do with yet another jewelry manufacturer and store: high prices and pushy salespeople. Our last tour was to a bird market and a flower market. People here don’t have room for dogs so they keep birds as pets. They take their birds, in their cages, for a walk, hang them on a tree branch in the park, then visit with friends who are also “walking” their birds.
I have a few more categories to write about and also urge anyone who is interested in a China tour to check out gct.com online and find China and the Yangtze River for the complete itinerary and costs. This was by far the most complete tour we’ve done and it had the most included meals of any we’ve ever done. Many of the optional tours had included lunches and dinners. If I had to make a general comment of the tour I’d say it was wonderful BUT I’d never recommend it in August and if you are between 70 and 80 years of age, not at all. The many steps, much walking, heat and humidity were just too much for me. Peoplefamilies. In Beijing, as in all the Chinese cities, we encountered people who wanted to try their English on us. They’d smile tentatively and Gary or I would say Ni Hao-hello. They’d try a few words then motion with their camera to take a photo of us with them. Gary was teased throughout the trip because he was the first one who was asked for a photo this way. I think it was because he was so different than their idea of elderly: coal black dyed hair, stooped posture and slow walking. Gary with white hair, Marine veteran posture and smiling was a natural draw. He figures his photo is making the rounds of their Facebook or their photo albums now. We have always tried to know a few words or a phrase in a country’s language when we visit. China is the most difficult. Each sound has 4 tones so ma can mean mother, numb, horse or to scold! We learned xie xie – thanks and boo yao – I don’t want it, ni hao- hello and zao – good morning and stopped at that.
Most families share a toilet down the hall from their apartment. Many do not have elevators in their buildings. Chinese people are not fat. I can’t remember seeing a belly on anyone.
Children begin school at 2 years old, attending from 9-5p.m. each day. This begins their education until they graduate high school.
The one birth rule is still in effect in China EXCEPT in farm areas or in the 55 various ethnic groups in the country. If a mother is lucky enough to have twins, that is counted as one birth. Hence, the practice of adopting Chinese girls by Americans. This rule is beginning to backfire because the balance of girls to boys is suffering. At least half the little boys that we observed were horribly spoiled by their mothers, clinging, whining and demanding to be picked up even when they were almost as tall as their mother! Didn’t observe that in the little girls.
Older parents in Beijing have a quaint thing they do: they take photos of their unmarried children to the park to try to set them up with a date or marriage with another older parent’s child. Not sure how many of these things work. The children, who are modern now, don’t like the practice of their parents showing their “family wares” in public.
In Beijing we happened upon a large group of dancers on a Sunday. They come together for exercise and pay the music person so they can dance. Of course, a lot of older people also do daily Tai Chi exercises in the parks. We saw hacky sack and badminton players (without nets) in the parks as well as chess and domino players with lots of observers.
Drivers in Beijing cannot always drive their cars. On weekdays only license numbers with certain end #’s can be driven in the city. Residents get around this by having another car with different end numbers or they use public transportation. It costs $7,000 to license a car and most don’t actually take driving lessons. The result: unbelievably frightening lane changing, speeding and many close calls and accidents. There are even more motor scooters and these are even more scary – no license needed at all. Just buy one, which is a 1-2 seater, and get as many family members, boxes, live chickens, etc. as you can pack on. Bicycles are still there but much more dangerous to ride.
One memorable visit was to a neighborhood cultural center. Senior ladies from 55-94 were dressed in their best and sang, danced and displayed stuff for sale! Sort of like a senior citizen center.
Made in China: If we were still in the acquisitive stage of our lives, we could have bought jade, carpets, silk, pearls, embroidery, laquerware, cloisonné, or hundreds of souvenirs being hawked by locals who shout out “one dollah” to get your attention. As I said, we bought playing cards, kites, several “lazy” teapots (for one with a strainer included), some tea and t-shirts. We actually came home with lighter luggage. The first thing everyone bought was a fan! I had brought 2 from home, thinking we “might” use them. They were our constant companions along with umbrellas and water. All hotels provided a bottle of water each and we could buy 2 bottles for a dollar on the bus. .
Weather: I think I covered the hellish weather throughout this story. They do have winter and snow and the tourist season dries up after October when they rest until about March. The China we visited was between the 20th and 40th parallel which includes Florida, Africa and India. We expected heat but were beaten down by the unexpected humidity.
History and Government: Again, lots of history covered within. This is their government explanation: the president and vice president are elected by the National People’s Congress which is comprised of elected deputies from each of China’s provinces-one deputy each 400,000 minimum. All citizens can vote at 18 and women enjoy equal rights with men in all phases of life. (Sounds good. Chinese people do not talk against their government.) Modernization of their economy is a prime goal but the debate is whether modernization goals can be achieved by socialism or if it must be led by capitalist methods.
Traveler: Gerhart and Joanne Goodrich from Lead, SD traveled
on August 04, 2011
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