A memorable encounter with the “Soul of the Balkans,” courtesy of a brass band in Belgrade
My name is Sonya Bakalova, and I am a Program Director in the region of Eastern Europe. Although I was born in what was then Czechoslovakia, my family later moved to a town on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast, as my father was a construction engineer and there was a big need for his expertise in the area. I started working in the travel industry and as an interpreter since the age of 16, and later graduated from the University of Economics in the city of Varna.
As I grew up in two different cultural environments, I see it as my task to bring our travelers closer to the differences in Eastern European traditions. And I find this is best when there is a chance to experience it just not planned but as a wonderful surprise “on the road.”
One memorable encounter occurred when my group and I were exploring Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. Most Americans know about Serbia from its turbulent recent history: Civil war, dictatorship, embargoes, and UN sanctions. So they are often surprised when they meet the wonderful Serbian people and see the country’s beautiful nature.
Visiting Belgrade is always interesting. I take my groups to visit the tomb of Marshal Tito—one of the most controversial politicians in Europe since World War II. We also stroll through Kalemegdan Fortress, which is now a lovely park. And at the end of our tour, we visit St. Sava Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church in the world.
My group and I were approaching St. Sava when we noticed a large group of people standing near the entrance. We discovered that there was a wedding ceremony going on inside and many of the guests had gathered in front of the church to greet the newly married couple. Included in this group were members of a wedding brass band—young Gypsy musicians—who were waiting to perform. I took advantage of this opportunity to explain some Gypsy wedding traditions. Then I asked my travelers if they wanted to hear some music. A very loud “yes” was the answer, so I asked the boss of the band if it would be possible for them to play just one song for our group.
They agreed, and started playing immediately. The moment was like a mixture of all the flavors of the Balkans: Loud, cheerful and a bit chaotic, with some Oriental sounds from the clarinet. The eyes of the musicians sparkled with pride; they were so happy to represent Belgrade for the Americans. The beautiful square in front of the church echoed with the sound and we had a feeling that the whole city could hear it. The performance lasted only ten minutes, but it was the emotion behind it that made all the difference. My travelers were so grateful to hear this joyful music, which they aptly described as “The Soul of the Balkans.”
Discover Belgrade and learn more about Serbian cultural traditions on our Eastern Europe & the Black Sea River CruiseTour.