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August 24, 2009
Vienna: Endlessly elegant
I’m not an opera buff, but when I was in Vienna I just had to go. We saw Strauss’s Salome, famous for the sultry and mesmerizing “Dance of the Seven Veils.” But even more than the music, I was mesmerized by the incredible elegance of it all. The patrons were dressed in such finery that could only be considered appropriate in a place as ornate as Vienna State Opera House—and I felt like I’d been transported to a bygone era.
Actually, all of Vienna feels like a time capsule from the days of the Hapsburgs, with its wide, organized boulevards and amazing palaces all built from pristine, light-colored stone. When I’m walking here and taking it all in, I can almost hear the chords of a Strauss waltz, or see the majestic Lipizzaner Stallions prancing in formation along the Ringstrasse. Even the desserts are exquisite—at cafes, my advice is to go beyond the famous sachertorte and pick whichever pastry looks most sinfully delicious to you. The linzertorte is my absolute favorite.
What’s especially great about Vienna is that it’s right on the Danube River—like so many other amazing European cities that straddle major waterways. What’s the most beautiful city you’ve explored by river? Email me your stories at
We’ll be following the Yangtze through China next in Harriet’s Corner, but I welcome your stories from anywhere in the world. And speaking of stories, we're in the process of making it easier for you to read the ones featured in Harriet's Corner. Click on Print from our Archives to print this entire update—and come back soon for a complete archive of our previous updates.
Harriet Lewis